A compact town split by the Rioni River, Kutaisi, the capital of the Imereti region of Georgia, is a window into the country’s history, culture, art and architecture and way of life.

On a summery Sunday morning, we are at Tbilisi Central Railway Station, trying to decode the signage that reveals the train departure timings and platforms in Georgian language. We are looking forward to a fourhour, pleasurable train journey to Kutaisi, one of the oldest settlements in all of Europe and the capital of Georgia from the 8th century BCE until the 11th century.

While buzzing cities like Tbilisi and Batumi certainly make it to the itinerary of most first-time travellers to the Transcaucasian jewel, peaceful Kutaisi is often given a miss. Packed with worthwhile ancient sites, handsome green parks, growing food scene and warm, hospitable people, Kutaisi is an underrated, compact riverine town that offers ample opportunities for slow exploration of authentic Georgia. Make sure to keep aside two to three days to take in its old-world aura at your own pace.

Here’s a comprehensive 48-hour guide-

Day 1

Set the tone with a morning stroll at the boisterous Green Bazaar

Located at Paliashvili Street in Kutaisi, the Green Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest agricultural markets in the region. Visit between 10 am to noon when it is bursting with a motley of sights, sounds, colours and fragrances. A photographer’s delight, the covered area of the bazaar is divided into several sections with vendors selling everything from the freshest vegetables and seasonal fruits like peaches, grapes and berries to spice mixes, bundles of herbs, cheese, flour, dried fruits, nuts and candies, Imeretian tea, freshly-ground coffee and local specialities like Churchkhela (colourful strands of walnuts coated in grape juice) and Tklapi (fruit leather). Most vendors are happy to strike up a conversation with the tourists despite the language barrier. In passageways around the bazaar, you see flower vendors and hole-in-the-wall shops and stalls selling books, clothes, accessories, hardware and other knick knacks. Want to grab a bite? Head to Bread and Wine, a little sit-down cafe inside the bazaar. A must-try here is the ubiquitous Khachapuri Imeruli (round and soft bread with cheese stuffed inside) that was born in Kutaisi. On your way out, spend time admiring the Soviet-era, terracotta bas-relief at the western entrance of the bazaar.

Picnic and people-watching in Kutaisi Central Park

A short 10 to 15-minute walk from Green Bazaar, the centrally-located Kutaisi Park is a perfect place to spread a blanket and enjoy a light picnic lunch of local fruits, nuts, cheese and wine packed from the bazaar. The garden was passed to Princess Darejan, daughter of King Solomon I of Imereti, as a wedding gift in the late 1700s. In the 19th century, people called it the “Boulevard” and it became a dating spot for couples as well as a place where poets and revolutionaries held their meetings. Glorious fountains and the monument of the Ishkhneli sisters are what make the garden particularly appealing today.

An afternoon excursion to the hillside Gelati monastery

A must-visit is the UNESCO World Heritage–listed Gelati Monastery sitting peacefully on a cliff, 8 km northeast of Kutaisi. Founded in 1106 by King David, it is an outstanding symbol of Golden Age architecture and one of western Georgia’s most important churches. Many Georgian rulers were buried here; you can find King David’s grave inside the south gate. Step inside the main Cathedral of the Virgin for a look at the fascinating frescoes painted between the 12th and 18th centuries. The monks here are friendly and don’t mind serenading you with a little piece of Georgian spiritual music in return for a small token of appreciation.

Gaze at the gushing Rioni River from the White Bridge

Once you’re back in the city, take a short break to freshen up before wending your way towards the historic White Bridge, one of the city’s main attractions. It was originally built in 1850 by military engineer Vite. Simply standing atop the bridge and taking in the views of the Rioni River flowing rapidly over the ashen rocks and old residences on the riverbanks is therapeutic.

The novel tradition of jumping off the bridge railing into the river, also known as “Baptism as a Kutaisian” is immortalised in the statue of Picasso’s Boy holding two hats. A quirky snap with the boy is a must-have souvenir from Kutaisi.

Feast on Georgian specialities by the river

There is no shortage of restaurants, bars and cafes around White Bridge. An underrated gem, King’s Lounge comes with a terrace overlooking the Rioni River and a live music performance by a local musician. Their menu comprises hearty portions of soups, kebabs, continental appetisers and mains as well as delicious Georgian specialities like Khachapuri, Khinkali (flavourful dumplings with soupy meat or vegetable fillings), Pkhali (a platter of spreadable balls of minced vegetables combined with ground walnuts) and more. Make sure to begin with Georgian wine and their massive in-house cheese platter.

Day 2

Indulge in a delish breakfast while watching the city wake up

There are countless colourful, beautifully dolled-up, vintagelooking cafes in the city. To begin your day with a filling breakfast, head to Cafe Fleur on Tamar the Queen Street. It opens around 9 am and has outdoor garden seating. Relish a variety of egg dishes, shakshuka with homemade bread, pancakes, yoghurt, fruit cups, coffee and more. Alternatively, for a cup of coffee alongside a piece of delectable cake or croissant, visit Cafe Neta on Tamar Mepe Street.

Explore Kutaisi’s history and architectural marvels on foot

Consider a 2 to 2.5-hour guided walking tour with quick-witted Akaki Sulava from Kutaisi Free Walking Tours to learn Kutaisi’s storied past, local legends and more. Alternatively, cover the city’s top spots by wandering on your own with a map. Start in Kutaisi’s main square with the large, ornamental Colchis Fountain at its centre. The distinctive water feature is tiered with enlarged copies of jewellery and ritual figurines discovered at the nearby archaeological site of Vani. Among architectural highlights are Meskhishvili Theatre, one of the oldest theatres in Georgia, established in 1861 and the Kutaisi State Opera Theatre on Rustaveli Avenue which boasts 10 Grecco-Roman figures standing with elan atop its highest pillars.

Behind art-deco Mon Plaisir Arch (meaning “My Pleasure” in French) is the Wall of Love, similar to the one in Paris, at Montmartre. On the opposite wall, there is a mural of a dreamy blue-eyed girl with lustrous locks, created by French street artist Vinie Graffiti in 2016. In the Catholic Quarter, visit the Holy Annunciation Temple built in 1862 by King Solomon II. Before you leave, spend some quiet moments inside to feel the serenity.

Working-man-style lunch at Bikentia’s Kebabery

In the mood for a low-cost, authentic lunch experience? Look no further than Bikentia’s Kebabery on 9 Tsisperi Kantselebi Street – a no-frills, dimly-lit eatery with standing tables in a Soviet-style arrangement and a limited menu of two items. Their speciality is the homemade beef kebab drenched in a piquant Satsebeli tomato sauce, topped with raw onion slices and fresh parsley, and served with bread. Pair it with a tap beer or a bottle of Georgian lemonade.

Pop into the city’s sports museum

There are a couple of small museums and galleries in the city. One of them is the Kutaisi Sports Museum at 3 Paliashvili Street. It has more than 1,600 displays including archival photos of famous Georgian athletes, vintage sports equipment, medals and trophies received at international tournaments etc. The museum is small but the staff here is always eager to give you a free guided tour.

Sunset at Bagrati Cathedral followed by a sundowner

A pleasant 30-minute uphill walk from the city centre, the 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral is an ideal place to soak up the purple-pink sunset sky in Kutaisi. A landmark of the city, the religious structure stands out with its turquoise-topped roof and dome and a churchyard that overlooks Kutaisi. Before you head back, enjoy a glass of wine at the nearby Our Garden Café & Bar with a view of the illuminated cathedral.

Wrap up with a dinner at the splendidly old-fashioned Sisters

Back in the main town, get ready for a special dinner at Sisters restaurant hidden in a historic, blush-pink building at 35 Zakharia Paliashvili. The spacious restaurant has a rustic and incredibly elegant décor with wooden furniture. When here, sample their soups, salads prepared from the freshest, local ingredients, Khachapuris and generous tasting boards that allow you to try a range of local delicacies. All this comes with live piano music in the evenings.

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Where to stay Family-run guesthouses are popular in Kutaisi. House 1899 located on Jacob Gogebashvili Street offers simple yet uber-comfortable rooms in a pleasing, 125-year-old mansion. The owner is happy to give you a taste of fine wine from their family vineyard.

Travel tip If travelling by rail from Tbilisi to Kutaisi, take the train to Rioni Station which is on the main east-west train line and has more frequent, faster connections. A 15-minute taxi drive can take you to Kutaisi city centre