Though it may be tiny in size, Singapore’s enormous culinary spreads can keep gourmands engaged round the clock.

Think of Singapore and chances are that certain specific images come to the mind first. Clean, organised city, smooth traffic, glistening steel and glass towers, a rich shopping experience and of course great cultural diversity that has led to an amazing culinary scene, with every kind of food experience conceivable. The City-State is, after all, home to nine restaurants that figure in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2023. Little wonder that this island country is the perfect destination for a gastronomical celebration.

It is late evening and I am strolling through the backstreets of Clarke Quay, amongst the most happening sites in the evenings. In true ostentatious style, the neon boards and electric signages act like disco lights, casing the scene in fantastic pink- green- yellow- blue bands. I am looking for Tempo Bar and Grill at the Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel along the Singapore River offering trendy cocktails and alfresco dining. This hang out zone is so popular, there’s a long wait for tables, but despite the wait, I know that my Singapore food adventure is off to an exciting start.

The next morning, I wake up to delicate Fish Ball Mee aka noodles in a light, flavourful broth, topped with fish balls and some chili paste, with subtle flavours that feel amazingly fit for breakfast. Those who are not much into things piscean, can try the Kaya toast, Singapore’s must try on the food list. A custard like jam made from coconut, egg, and the national herb, pandan, is spread on toasted bread, typically a spongy brown or white loaf, and capped with a cube of salty butter. Wash it down with a cup of Kopi-O (black coffee) or the Tarik, a milky tea made with condensed or even evaporated milk, not unlike our humble chai found at tiny stalls around north India.

In fact, as the Kaya toast is rather light and refreshing, it is popular as an all-day snack and is widely available just like vada-pav would be in Mumbai.

Lovel Love

With my appetite for food satiated, my hunger for the other famous activity of Singapore, shopping, has arisen and I am now ready for a walk down to Orchard Road for some shopping. Soon, it is lunch time and the Lobby Lounge at Shangri-La is a must-visit for local heritage dishes with an added touch of glamour. Collaborating with local hawkers, the Shangri-La has created a large variety on offer, starting with the Bak Kut Teh, naturally sweet from pork juices, and the soup textures off with a nice piquant kick, the pork meat is also fall-off-the-bone tender. The chilli crab with fried mantou buns or steamed buns, is another good bet, earnestly this is remarkably decadent.

Chinatown

Lunch done, move on to the Chinatown Heritage Centre, a must-see attraction in the city centre, situated in three restored houses on Pagoda Street. Catch a sneak peek into the inhabits of the initial colonisers in Chinatown as this is where the humble 1950s residences have been recreated. It is a good idea to take a guided tour, and learn more about the background of Chinatown’s early residents, mainly Chinese immigrants.

All that walking will make you hungry, but no worries, after all, you are in Chinatown, home to a surfeit of food stalls that champ diverse local fare, from appetising Hainanese chicken rice to a nourishing porridge, Maxwell Food Centre is a top choice. The chicken rice, a melange of garlic and chilli sauce served with the fragrant rice and poached boneless chicken stifled in light soy sauce, excitement is true here. Moreover, ever since travelling-celebrity Chef Antony Bourdain ‘discovered’ Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice, this modest centre has been a tourist magnet.

Not just lunch, even if you have arrived in the morning and without breakfast, head straight to the Hong Lim Food Complex in Chinatown for the Michelin recommended Ji Ji Wanton Noodle stall. Expect an extended queue, though it steps rather speedily. Go for the Char Siew Wanton Noodles, about INR 400 a plate, and come with a lavish portion of finely sliced char siew, or pork along with some fried wanton and noodles stirred in its distinct sauce. Nobody bothers with small talk here, everyone is here just to eat, and eat well. If drinks and Singapore nightlife are more your scene, you can head to J Bar at the Millennium M Hotel next door for some live music and a cocktail, plus a few tapas to go with your toe-tapping fun.

Food markets

One of the best ways to gain an insight into native culinary diversity is to visit the local markets and I do exactly that. Geylang Serai Market, in the pulsating Geylang district, is one of the prevalent and busiest wet markets in Singapore. You can find most city chefs shopping here for the day’s cooking. Housed on the second floor of the wet market is the hawker centre that will surely whet your appetite.

Try genuine Malay dishes like the Asam pedas stingray (tart and piquant fish stew), beef rendang, or braised meat prepared in coconut milk and spices, goreng pisang or banana fritters, Roti john, an omelette sandwich, and Putu piring or steam rice flour cakes filled with gula melaka or palm sugar. Whether you are on a quest on Singapore’s best street art or starving for a range of noodle dishes, the Amoy Street Food Centre is your best bet. It is adorned with wall art that echoes its culture, as well as a miscellany of hawker choices. Coffee Break offers spiced mochas and lattes instead of the routine kopi. A Noodle Story is amazing for a home-grown twist on Japanese ramen. If you like a decadent flavour fish broth, Han Kee Fish Soup comes highly recommended. Don’t leave without trying the famed curry puffs of J2.

Michelin dining

But Singapore is not just about street food or the food hall dining experiences. The city also offers some exquisite, or rather elite, dining options. Not to miss is a meal at the world’s only Michelin-starred Modern Singaporean restaurant, Chef Han’s Labyrinth. Fancy this!

My starters come in a tray crafted like a hawker centre table. I get to make my own shaved ice dessert. These make for an enjoyable creation experience, even for those acquainted with dishes like kaya toast and Rojak.

For those looking for a fancier edition, try Odette, a 3-Michelin star restaurant that is sixth on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants List 2023. The meal here promises to be more than a memory. Chef Julien Royer is known not only for the inordinate flavours in his cuisine but also for his plating style. It makes for an extremely thrilling experience. The service of the Kampot crusted pigeon for example adds a little of drama to the meal with its delicate plating. Another restaurant that one must absolutely try is Born on Neil Road. Chef Z or Tan who helms the kitchen marries East and West over practises and cuisines and the nine-course dinner here is knotted to nine conducting principles from birth to legacy. Envisage nothing short of a wedlock of French gastronomy matching with a profound understanding of Chinese savours.

Chill zone

Before calling it a day, a drink at the Orchard Hotel’s Bar Intermezzo is a must, also because the sharply-focused cocktail menu curated with house-made ingredients and craft products explains the many estates in survival in heritage Singapore. For those who do not know, in the early 19th century, the area that is now Orchard Road was nothing but plantations yielding produce such as pineapple, gambier and nutmeg. The hotel has tried to keep that spirit alive and through the use of inimitable house-made syrups, extracts and brews of ingredients such as fresh tropical fruit and exotic spices, Intermezzo celebrates and honours the inspiration of these ancient plantations. Truly from street food and heritage dining spots to swanky celebrity restaurants, options abound in this Lion city!