Japan’s centuries-old tradition of sake-making has been inscribed as an intangible cultural heritage of the world by the United Nations Educational, Social and Cultural Organisation. This was decided by UNESCO at a meeting in Ascuncion in Paraguay, where it is considering applications from across the world for cultural practices to be added to the list that began in 2003.

The win by Japan is being celebrated by its government that points out that sake is viewed as a sacred gift and is made from grains and water. It is indispensable in festivals, weddings, rites of passage and other socio-cultural occasions in Japan. Deeply rooted in Japanese culture, the beverage is made by craftspeople using koji mould to convert the starch in the ingredients into sugar. They oversee the process to make sure the mould grows in optimal conditions, adjusting the temperature and humidity as needed.

Audrey Azoulay

In a press statement, UNESCO says that in recent decades, it has played a pivotal role in reshaping the concept of cultural heritage. Beyond monuments and artifacts, the term now encompasses traditions, oral expressions, performing arts, social practices, rituals, festive events, and the knowledge and skills involved in traditional crafts.

“The Convention has reinvented the very notion of heritage – to the extent that we can no longer separate the tangible from the intangible, the sites from the practices,” says Audrey Azoulay, Director-General, UNESCO. “It is our great responsibility to promote this heritage, which, far from being mere folklore, far from being frozen in time and distanced from today’s reality, is very much alive and needed,” Azoulay adds.

According to the Japanese government, an important feature of sake-making is using koji mould which converts the starch in the ingredients into sugar. Craftpersons sprinkle koji mould spores onto the steamed grain to start the fermentation process and oversee it to make sure the koji mould grows to its optimal conditions.

Workers mixing ‘koji’ mould with rice to make sake (Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs, Japan, 2023)

“They make adjustments to the temperature and humidity, which requires full use of their five senses. Their labour decides the quality of sake. The skills using koji mould have been developed reflecting the natural features and climate of regions and gave rise to various kinds of sake, such as nihon-shu (brewed liquor), shochu and awamori (distilled liquor),’’ says the Japanese nomination document.

It adds that while sake is mass-produced today in modernised factories where the fermentation process is automated, the craftspersons continue to make sake in the traditional method even though it consumes time and labour. “They are proud of their skills and public/private sectors support them. This element is vital in present Japan as living heritage. Many other bodies and people are involved in transmitting the element, such as sake makers associations, research institutions, koji mould suppliers, farmers who provide ingredients for making sake and residents of the regions,’’ says the nomination.

A prayer in progress for bountiful production of sake and for health of workers (Photo: Agency for Cultural Affairs, Japan, 2023)

UNESCO says that since sake-making requires many hands and good teamwork, the element fosters strong social ties among the craftspersons. The element also unites craftspersons and local residents around breweries including the farmers providing ingredients. It is a basis of social cohesion of communities concerned.

The element is closely associated with religious rituals and has an important cultural meaning for the communities. In the process of sake-making, purification rituals are held wishing the assistance of the deities. Sake, being considered as a sacred gift from deities, is indispensable in festivals, weddings, rites of passages and many other socio-cultural occasions in Japan, it adds.