Grand Mosque of Muscat
Believers normally turn to spiritual places in search of the spiritual or divine light that helps them overcome the various spanners that life throws at them. But at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat, the capital of Oman, it is not just the holy light that attracts people, believers or not.
The Grand Mosque, as it is popularly known, is also home to a man-made light that beckons tourists and believers alike. The source of this light is a gigantic, sparkling chandelier that was the biggest in the world when it was made, barely two decades ago.
Weighing over 9 tonnes and decorated with over 600,000 pieces of crystal, lined with gold, illuminated by over 100 bulbs, its physical measurements are gigantic. It is about 15 m high and 9 m wide, and to make it accessible for cleaning, it comes with its own stairs fitted inside, that of course remain hidden from below and are used only for maintenance and cleaning.
It is not just the chandelier that catches the eye, as I approached the mosque, what caught my eye first were the soothing, clean lines of its construction and a huge dome that sits atop.
Said to be among the largest mosques in the world, the Sultan Qaboos Mosque is adorned by a central dome that rises over 53 m high. It is the only mosque in Oman with five minarets. Inside, the central hall or the main praying area is a large, pillarless rectangular room under the dome, spread over 420 sqm, covered by a single, hand-woven carpet, that was made by hundreds of artisans and its colourful motifs have been painted with vegetable dyes.
Al Alam Palace
Another attraction in Muscat is the Al Alam Palace. With a façade of gold and blue, Al Alam Palace was built over 50 years ago, and incidentally by Mumbai-based construction giant Shapoorji Pallonji, which is one of the largest shareholders of Tata Sons.
The Al Alam Palace is a ceremonial palace used by the Sultan for official functions and receptions. Sitting between two Portuguese era forts, Mirani and Jalali, the palace has been called one of the most elegant but humble, almost understated royal palaces in the region.
When we visited the palace, it was rather late in the day. With dusk fast approaching, the palace was well lit up, glowing like a jewel even as it was surrounded by darkness.
Muttrah Souq
As in every historic city around the world, Muscat, too, has two clear parts, the Old Town and the new parts. Though the modern agglomeration is large, stretching to almost 3,600 sqkm, almost the same size as Delhi, the Old Town or the Walled City is a compact settlement that is said to date back to the pre-Christian era as a trading port whose most famous export historically was the Omani frankincense, which is mainly produced in the Salalah region.
Over the centuries, in a tumultuous foreign, most notably under the Portuguese rule in 16th and 17th centuries and also under Ottoman Empire. A number of forts were built by the Portuguese, who also fortified the Old Town, building a large, surrounding wall, with various turrets for defending it against attacks. Inside this Walled City lies Muttrah Souq, the traditional market, which is not only one of the oldest in the region, but also one of the largest, with hundreds of shops selling a wide range of artefacts and products, not just from Oman, but from various parts of the world, notably India.
It was here that I found and bought the famous Omani Halwa, a dessert that is a soft, sweet gelatinous mixture flavoured with saffron, cardamom, ghee, nuts and rose water.
Besides dates, which also I bought, Omani Halwa is one of the easiest choices for souvenirs and gifts it can last for about a month and there is no risk of leakage or breakage.
But no visit to Oman can be complete without buying some of its famous perfumes or ittar as it is called locally. I picked up half a dozen different fragrances of ittar to add to the sweet memories of the visit.