Doyle's The Hound of the Baskervilles still captivates Dartmoor
“Mr Holmes, they were the footprints of…a gigantic hound”. This iconic line is from the BBC series Sherlock, featured in an episode in Season 2. This episode was a modern reinterpretation of Arthur Conan Doyle’s classic story, The Hound of the Baskervilles.
For many years or even centuries, the story of The Hound of the Baskervilles, first published in The Strand magazine in serialised form, from 1901 to 1902, has inspired numerous adaptations in television, film and plays. These interpretations explore themes of friendship, a local legend of a black hound haunting a family, justice, guilt, and isolation, often set against the wild, untamed landscape of Dartmoor with its gray, overcast weather.
But do you know who inspired Arthur Conan Doyle to make Dartmoor the central setting of one of his most prolific stories, featuring Sherlock Holmes, the greatest fictional detective with acute observation skills, accompanied by the army doctor, Watson, at the helm? The answer lies in the legend of the real hound itself.
The Legend of Richard Cabell
Just as India has its own set of legends, which have come alive in numerous forms, Britain too enjoys its share of legends that fall in the thin line between truth and fiction.
During the mid-17th century, there lived a man named Richard Cabell, who held the title of squire and resided at Brook Manor, near Buckfastleigh, which lies within Dartmoor National Park. Described as a ‘monstrously evil man’, Cabell was known for his immoral deeds, including hunting with his pack of hounds and allegedly murdering his wife over rumours of adultery. His reputation was so notorious that rumours spread throughout Buckfastleigh, claiming he had sold his soul to the devil.
In 1677, when he died, it was believed that a pack of howling black hounds surrounded his house and breathed fire and smoke. It was said, that eerie and demonic sounds were heard all across Dartmoor, during his death anniversary.
To prevent him from rising from his grave, a large stone was placed on Cabell’s head, and a sepulchre, or a chamber used as a tomb, was constructed over his grave. Local children would dare each other to approach the building and insert a finger into the keyhole, to see if Cabell would ‘eat’ it or not.
Influenced by this legend, which was reportedly narrated by his friend and journalist Bertram Fletcher Robinson, Conan Doyle began writing what would eventually become The Hound of the Baskervilles.
What became of Richard Cabell’s cursed town?
Today, the home of Richard Cabell, who inspired the book, is a privately owned house and part of a national heritage site in England.
Buckfastleigh is now a small town located on the southeastern border of Dartmoor National Park, nestled between Dartmoor’s southern moors and the South Devon coast.
Despite its modest size, the town retains a distinctly medieval character, with a town center featuring buildings that date back to the 17th and 18th centuries.
Although many of the buildings in Buckfastleigh have been rebuilt over the years, the town has managed to preserve its medieval layout, particularly in the areas surrounding Fore Street. The architecture here includes structures from the 17th to the early 20th century.
Holy Trinity Church (Photo: St Luke Church)
But this otherwise unassuming town, once known for its thriving mills due to its proximity to the River Dart, is also home to the 13th-century Holy Trinity Church, where the notorious ‘evil squire’ Richard Cabell and his family are buried. The sepulchre remains the burial site of Richard Cabell III, whose mausoleum, a plain structure with a pyramidal roof, reflects the disdain in which he was held. The absence of his own chest tomb, unlike his parents’ tombs, underscores the lingering hatred and fear he inspired, even after his death.
But Cabell’s legend is not the only reason the sepulchre feels so haunting. On July 21, 1992, a devastating fire ravaged the church, with many believing it was deliberately set by Satanists, though no evidence supports this claim. Adding to its grim history, the church was once a hotspot for body snatchers who sold corpses to medical schools.
With such a dark and troubled past, it is easy to see why many believe the Holy Trinity Church is cursed by misfortune.
Dartmoor beyond Doyle
Yet, despite its grim history, Dartmoor itself remains an awe-inspiring place, renowned for its rugged beauty and dramatic landscapes.
Located in South Devon county, near Plymouth, in south-western edges of England, Dartmoor is famous for its rugged terrain, granite tors, ancient ruins, and lush green valleys.
For nature enthusiasts, Haytor Rocks is a must-visit spot to enjoy spectacular views across Dartmoor and the South Devon coast. Located on the southeastern edge of Dartmoor, these rocky granite outcrops, known as tors, are typically covered in lichens and mosses. From Haytor Rocks, visitors can see the sea and the Isle of Portland on the horizon. A few miles west of Haytor, there is another high granite outcrop called Hound Tor Rocks, which has an interesting backstory.
According to legend, these rocks were once a pack of hounds turned to stone by a witch. Alternatively, they are also thought to be the remains of a medieval village, Hound Tor, abandoned in the 13th century due to harvest failures, high rainfall, and animal diseases.
Entering the heart of the town, you will come across Princeton, a small village. Considered a moorland outpost, this village developed due to the proximity of Dartmoor Prison, which once housed French prisoners of war during the Napoleonic Wars. This led to the gradual growth of Princeton as a settlement to support the prison staff and their families. Today, it acts as a gateway for visitors to the Dartmoor National Park.
But for those seeking spirituality, Buckfast Abbey is the ideal destination. Located on the edge of Dartmoor, it was originally constructed by King Canute in 1018. The church served as a community hub until the dissolution of Catholic monasteries by Henry VIII.
After falling into ruin, a group of French monks rebuilt the abbey between 1906 and 1937, restoring the monastery. Additionally, visitors can also explore the Lavender Garden, which is home to 50 types of soothing and colorful plants.
Baskervilles’ impact on Dartmoor
While Buckfast Abbey offers peace and history, it is the eerie legends of Dartmoor that truly capture the imagination. The tale of The Hound of the Baskervilles has left a lasting mark on the region. Many Sherlock fans, or literary enthusiasts in general, visit the places where Conan Doyle stayed or drew inspiration for his story, and as they explore Dartmoor, they often feel a deep connection with the author himself, walking in the very landscapes that sparked his iconic tale.
To further attract Sherlock fans and visitors, many tour operators in Dartmoor periodically organise Holmes-centric tours, such as the Dartmoor Quest. This tour begins at the atmospheric ruins of Buckfastleigh Church, located to the south of the moor, where visitors can explore the tomb of Squire Cabell.
Other tour operators like ‘Tour by Locals’ and ‘Unique Devon Tours’ organise tours dedicated to the celebrated author, where guides explore the intriguing story behind the book, including the discussion of legends, people, and places, which inspired Doyle to write the story of Sherlock for the first time in 10 years.
Although exact data on the impact of the story on Dartmoor is unavailable, the strong affection for the author is evident. With tour operators organising author-centric tours and visitors eager to explore the places connected to the story, the love for this prolific writer is undeniable.
Meanwhile, Dartmoor is a place where history, mystery, and beauty intertwine. From the haunting tale of Richard Cabell to the landscapes that inspired The Hound of the Baskervilles, it offers a unique blend of intrigue and literary significance. Whether exploring ancient sites or walking the moors, Dartmoor continues to captivate visitors with its timeless charm. If you are looking for a peaceful escape and a unique experience, Dartmoor is the perfect destination for people of all types, be it literature lovers, history buffs, or nature enthusiasts.