Crooning in Cajun Country

It was a rather unusual sight for a Saturday morning. The clock had just about struck 10:00 and the dance floor was already packed, with locals and visitors, young, middle-aged and old, swinging to beautiful melodies being played by a live band.

The setting above may sound fictional in most parts of the world, but in Louisiana, in southern United States, it is pretty much a normal sight as the state is defined by its music, cuisine, community bonding and amazing outdoors.

We had just reached Naq’s N Duson, a relatively new addition to the food and music scene in Duson near Lafayette, a city in Louisiana, where we had arrived as part of a visit to Louisiana at the invitation of Travel South USA. Along with other members of the global media, India Outbound had been invited to attend the Global Media Summit of Travel South USA, held in Louisville, Kentucky, in early April.

Two-storeyed music house features live music performances every night when it is open

Established at the former site of a popular restaurant at Duson, Naq’s N Duson has revived a space that holds decades of local memories. With live music in the evenings every week from Thursday to Saturday, it comes alive every Saturday morning with its special Cajun and Zydeco breakfasts that combine rhythm and flavour, which is what we were fortunate enough to attend.

The founder, Kevin Naquin, himself is a Cajun musician and accordion player who also performed while we were there.

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In that hall, on that morning, the best elements of Louisiana were on display, from Cajun music and cuisine to the feeling of community and the ambience of a warm and welcoming friendliness that pervaded all around, embracing not just the locals, but also visitors like us, in the spirit that Louisiana and southern United States is so well-known for.

Adding to the special ambience prevalent on the day was the presence of Geno Delafose, a very popular singer-musician in the US, who is one of the younger generation musicians credited with having created nouveau Zydeco music.

Live music in restaurants and bars is one of the star attractions of Louisiana and in practically all the cities and towns that we visited, be it Lafayette or Lake Charles, there was a wide selection of restaurants that offered live music, with local artists or bands playing, to fairly packed houses, mostly with regulars from the local communities.

Live music is almost a given in all bars in Louisiana

One notable experience for us was at the Hideaway on Lee in Lafayette, where on the crowded floor, practically everyone, irrespective of the age or gender, moved in unison to the beats of the music, pretty much like any well-trained group of dancers would move during a performance. Even their energy levels seemed to be in a perfect sync as their feet shuffled just as would of those marching in a military parade.

We also got to sample some melodious tunes and songs by artists playing guitar at the Panorama Music House. This two-storeyed music house features a full calendar of live music performances every night that it is open. Entering the sophisticated lounge one can head upstairs for a bird’s eye view of the performance stage from the rooftop bar.

Music enthusiasts at the Panorama Music House will find an eclectic collection of signed posters and photographs that adorn the exposed brick walls. The building that houses Panorama is rich in history. Over 100 years old, it once housed offices of American Press and printing and it also served as a trade school back in the 1940s.

From packed indoors to expansive outdoors

Louisiana is home to over 2 million wild alligators and over a million raised in hatcheries

Besides music, Louisiana is best known for its alligators and other wildlife, which are found in plenty all over the vast outdoors that the state is home to. As a large chunk of Louisiana is covered with wetlands, which are home to an extremely fertile ecosystem, there is plenty to do and to see in the great outdoors of the state. So famous are its outdoors that they are also referred to as the Great Outback and the most famous denizens of its outback are alligators, which lend yet another sobriquet to Louisiana, the Gator Country.

Rivers and bayous lining large parts of outdoors of Louisiana not only display nature’s beauty but also showcase the diverse flora and fauna, notably the famed alligators that have evolved into a comprehensive activity-based experience for visitors to the state. There are almost as many alligators in Louisiana as people. It is said that Louisiana is home to over 2 million wild alligators and over a million alligators raised in hatcheries, while its human population is 4.5 million, meaning there are two alligators for every three humans in the state. Moreover, with its surface area of 135,000 sqkm, Louisiana has over 22 alligators for every sqkm of land. In contrast, India is home to barely 5,000 crocodiles for its surface of 3.2 million sqkm.

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Surprisingly, there are areas within Louisiana, especially its wetlands, that are even more densely packed with alligators and they outnumber humans by two to one.

The wealth of wildlife in Louisiana is not just about alligators, the state and its wetlands also attract a large number of birds, most significantly, the pelicans. We learn that there are only three varieties of pelicans in the world and Louisiana is home to two of them.

Creole Nature Trail All-American Road

Driving along the 290 km Creole Nature Trail All-American Road is the best way to come face to face with the alligators

One of the best ways to discover the area and come face to face with its most famous residents, the alligators, is by driving along the 290 km Creole Nature Trail All-American Road, that allows visitors a chance to experience nature’s numerous bounties up close. All along the route are signs that mark areas where alligators cross.

The All American Road is near Lake Charles, the fifth largest city of the state that is located along the banks of River Calcasieu and the eponymous water body, Lake Charles. As it is situated in the bayou land, water bodies are never too far from anywhere in Lake Charles city or its surroundings.

Along the All American Road, the Pintail Wildlife Drive is the best place to see wildlife as one drives along the 5-km loop. A variety of different birds can be seen throughout the seasons, while alligators are yearround residents. The loop traverses canal-side hedgerow-type scrub, prairie and marsh habitats which are populated by a variety of bird life from flycatchers, wrens and warblers to ducks and geese.

Soon, we see many alligators, some in plain sight in the grass or by the water, but many almost invisible, as their entire body was inside the water, except for their bulbuous eyes and a small part of their skull, clearly lying in wait for their next prey.

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Besides Pintail Wildlife Drive, another area worth exploring is Sabine National Wildlife Refuge, which is one of more than 560 refuges within America’s National Wildlife Refuge System.

The refuge occupies marshes between Calcasieu and Sabine lakes and contains a diversity of habitat including freshwater impoundments, wooded ridges and levees, canals, ponds, lakes and bayous. We are told that some of the largest wetland management efforts in Louisiana occur at Sabine.

Between late November through early February, large concentrations of Snow and Greater White-fronted geese pack into this relatively small site. One can also spot less common species such as Ross’s and Canada geese. Be sure to stop at the 800 m loop over water boardwalk to walk right out into the marsh.

Besides the All-American Road, another popular manner of discovering the wetlands of Louisiana is with swamp tours such as those offered by McGee’s Swamp Tours that provide tours of about 90 minutes on a small boat, traversing through the Atchafalaya Swamp that are sprawling over 1.4 million acres or about 5,700 sqkm, extending from Lafayette to Baton Rouge.

Seashelled beaches

Holly Beach is ideal for fishing as well as birdwatching with friends and family

After playing hide and seek with the gators and other wildlife at the Pintail Drive, we head for some beach experience as the Creole Nature Trail All-American Road boasts of six beaches including Holly Beach, our first beach on the FAM trip.

Holly Beach, that is nicknamed ‘The Cajun Riviera’ is a rustic beach, located along the Gulf of Mexico. According to our local friends, the Holly Beach is ideal for fishing as well as birdwatching with friends and family.

Not far from Holly Beach lies another exotic beach in the area, the Rutherford Beach, located in Cameron Parish. The beach attracts many shorebirds and is most famous for its exotic collection of seashells that seem to cover the entire beach and make for a shell-collector’s paradise. So densely packed is the beach with shells that it is impossible to walk without stepping on them.

While driving to Rutherford Beach one can spot a variety of birds and numerous crabs all along the route, hence driving slowly and keeping a camera handy, is highly recommended.

Unlike many beaches around the world, both these beaches are not too crowded, leaving each visitor with the space to make it seem like a private beach!

Colourful abodes of Charpentier Historic District

Charpentier Historic District lends a glimpse into the architectural history of Southwest Louisiana

A vibrant part of the visit to Lake Charles is the exploration of the Charpentier Historic District that lends a unique glimpse into the architectural history of Southwest Louisiana.

Spread over an area of about 40 blocks, Charpentier Historic District is well-known for its mix of colourful, Victorian-style homes, each showcasing distinct designs that reflect the area’s past as a bustling lumber town. A walk or a drive down the quarter seems like moving through an art gallery with houses, built in different styles, but each with generous splashes of vibrant colours and amazing designs, spread all over, in the setting of a typical American neighbourhood where each house comes with its own grounds and greenery.

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The charm of Charpentier Historic District lies in its variety. Turrets, stained-glass windows, intricate woodwork and expansive porches combine to create a visual feast that tells the story of Lake Charles’ industrial roots and creative flair.

Slow travel with bicycle tours

Cycle tours takes visitors through an exploration of the historic downtown as well as the lakefront

Another outdoor activity in Lake Charles area that is thoroughly enjoyable is a guided bike ride, with a local tour guide. We were on a tour with Donnie Glyenn who guided us on a tour to experience Lake Charles with ‘Biking Through The Lake’.

In keeping with the backdrop of Lake Charles and its colours, each of us was handed a colourful bike and I was thrilled to get a lavender-coloured one. Armed with a microphone, Glyenn began leading the tour, pedalling slowly enough to allow the group to take in the beautiful surroundings and click pictures. He also made it a point to stop at key spots along the route, like the Veterans Memorial Park, where he explained the significance of the site. The ride took us on an exploration of the historic downtown as well as the beautiful lakefront.

With lively music playing, the bicycle tour was more a party on the wheels than a typical tour of the site!

Roaming around in Lake Charles on the bicycle, for well over an hour, I realise that wherever you may go in Louisiana, music is never too far and just like amazing nature and cuisine, crooning is all pervasive in this Cajun country!

Where To Stay: L’auberge Casino Resort Lake Charles

L’Auberge Casino Resort offers variety of room options to the travellers

Though there are numerous hotels in and around Lake Charles, one of the better known ones is L’Auberge Casino Resort, that sits by the lake itself. As one enters the hotel and its massive lobby, one is welcomed by a casino and its numerous slot machines. The hotel comes with a variety of room and suite options to meet travellers’ requirements.

Beyond the spacious casino floor, the resort also offers a variety of other amenities to suit a variety of tastes and desires. For golf afficionadoes, the resort offers the only public golf course in Louisiana designed by noted golfer Tom Fazio. For shopaholics, there are numerous shopping options within the sprawling property as is a spa overlooking the lake.