Corsica: Chasing rainbows and legends

The year 2024 felt like a dream, filled with adventure, new experiences, unforgettable journeys, and meaningful connections. It was a year when I set out to find myself, much like the main character in my favourite Bollywood film. And, just like that character’s story, my journey took me to Corsica, a French island in the Mediterranean Sea and one which is often overlooked by Indian visitors.

Corsica is not a place that is often in the spotlight, but it holds something uniquely magical, a quiet charm that stays with you long after you have left.

I set off on my own Bollywood-inspired adventure to this beautiful Mediterranean island, ready to indulge in a bit of Matargashti, create a little Tamasha.

My journey to Corsica began with a group of girlfriends, setting off from the beautiful coastal town of Nice. After spending four days soaking in the charm of Nice, its stunning coastline, the quaint old town, and tranquil beaches we boarded a train for a two-hour ride to Toulon, where our adventure truly began.

Citadel of Bastia is both a picturesque district and the historical site of the city

Although there are direct flights from Nice and Marseille to Ajaccio on the eastern coast of Corsica, we had something different in mind. We opted for an overnight ferry, bound for Bastia. Little did we know that the Mediterranean was not quite in the best mood that evening.

Even as we boarded the ferry at Toulon, nothing had prepared us for the adventurous ride ahead. Unfortunately, the sea was a bit rough and the ferry rocked fiercely from side to side. At time, it was a challenge just to keep our dinner plates steady. But despite the turbulence, the ferry was surprisingly well-equipped for the 12-hour journey. For such an affordable price, we were impressed by how comfortable the boat was, offering a variety of dining options and entertainment to keep us occupied.

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The journey was filled, almost in equal measure, with food, sea sickness, and a fair amount of laughter as we embraced the unpredictable adventure. Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we entered the harbour in the serene town of Bastia. The island’s calm beauty welcomed us with open arms, making every bit of the rocky journey worth it.

The weather was not our friend during the whole trip, as we decided to visit Corsica in October. Ideally, summer is the best time to go, when the island is buzzing with tourists, the hotspots are lively, and the sun is at its brightest. But we were greeted instead by a cool breeze and the occasional drizzle. Still, the change in weather allowed me to experience the island’s peacefulness, far away from the usual hustle and bustle of the world.

It gave me some of the most serene views of my life. When I arrived in Bastia, I headed straight for the location of my favourite song, Matargashti, from the Bollywood film Tamasha, at the Bastia Museum Café. The setting was much quieter than the film’s vibrant scene, but the views and food certainly lived up to the hype. As a Bollywood fan, I was in my element, but what caught my attention next was something that appealed to my love for politics and history. On the way to a lighthouse, I spotted the words “Corsica is not France” written in black. It was a striking reminder of the island’s unique identity.

Talking to a local, I learned that despite Corsica being under French rule for over two centuries, it does not “feel French” to many Corsicans, and to visitors, either. Corsica has its own language, deeply rooted in Italian culture, and over the years, there have been significant uprisings, some violent, in a push for independence. Yet, Paris has never truly responded to the Corsican demands for change.

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After a fascinating political conversation and a lovely breakfast, we picked up the rental car we had pre-booked and made our way to our bed and breakfast or BNB.

Our first day was spent exploring the charming town of Bastia. We visited the old port, admired the striking orange façade of the Palace of Governors, and strolled through the stunning Romieu Garden, which links the Citadel to the Old Port. The garden felt like it had stepped out of the 19th century, with beautiful vines cascading across the metal fencing and offering a perfect view of the coast.

For lunch, we found a spot in the lively Saint Nicolas Square, full of people and energy. The rest of the day was spent wandering Bastia’s scenic streets and relaxing on the beach, making for the perfect introduction to Corsica.

A quick tip for anyone visiting Corsica. If you want to truly experience the island’s rugged beauty, make sure to rent a car. Honestly, it is the best way to get the most out of the island’s untouched forests, majestic mountains, and stunning coastline. Driving through it all was something I will never forget.

The next day, we set off on another adventure, this time heading towards the western coast where our first stop was Calvi.

Calvi is a picturesque town on Corsica’s northwest coast

Calvi

Calvi is a picturesque town on Corsica’s northwest coast, famous for its historic citadel, beautiful marina, and well-kept beach. There is also a fascinating local legend that the legendary explorer Christopher Columbus was born here, which adds to the charm of this place. But for me, Calvi was unforgettable for a completely different reason.

While we were at the 15th-century citadel, a heavy downpour caught us by surprise. Soaked to the bone and freezing, we were ready to take shelter when, out of nowhere, I saw the first double rainbow of my life. The sight was breath-taking, a moment that completely made up for the weather.

Calanques de Piana

After a scenic drive from Calvi, my friends and I set off in the car to witness the incredible Calanques de Piana rock formations, and I can honestly say it was one of the most stunning sights I have ever seen.

The beauty of the place completely took my breath away. I would even bet it was featured in Tamasha. The dramatic cliffs and crystal-clear waters below felt like something out of a dream, and you cannot help but feel a sense of calm wash over you as you take it all in.

The best part was being able to sit and just absorb the peace of it all, no distractions, just the beauty of nature surrounding me. It really gave me a chance to pause and find a moment of tranquillity.

It is only about an hour and a half drive from Calvi, but I do have to warn you that the roads can be quite tricky, winding and narrow in places. It is a bit of an adventure to get there, but once you see the rock formations, you will agree it is absolutely worth it.

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The Calanques de Piana are part of a UNESCO-listed heritage site, and the unique, reddish-pink granite cliffs rising from the sea are truly one of Corsica’s natural treasures. It is the kind of place that stays with you long after you have left. If you are looking for peace and natural beauty, this is the perfect spot.

The next day, we were set to leave our BNB and head to the town of Lucciana, just about 20 km from Bastia. Lucciana has its fair share of history, with a 12th-century cathedral and the archaeological site of Mariana. There is also the Museum of France, which we were eager to visit. But the main draw for us was the stunning beach and the breath-taking coastline. After a short stop, we continued on to our next destination, Porto Vecchio.

Porto Vecchio

While the drive from Bastia to Calvi took us through the island’s rugged peaks, the journey from Lucciana to Porto Vecchio ran alongside the sparkling coastline. And we were lucky enough to have the sun shining at its brightest that day.

Corsican cuisine is a blend of French and Italian influences

Porto Vecchio is perched on a hilltop in the southeast of Corsica, surrounded by some of the most beautiful landscapes you could imagine. The town has a vibrant marina, a bustling port dating back to Roman times, and a handful of beautiful beaches, all framed by a charming old town and a 16th-century fortress.

The centre of Porto Vecchio is one of the most popular on the island, with its maze-like streets, lively piazzas, restaurants, bars, and boutiques. The atmosphere is always buzzing, and the views make it even more special.

Beyond the towns, it was Corsica’s untouched natural beauty that really captivated me. The island’s raw charm is by far the most incredible thing it has to offer, it truly is a kind of place that gives you memories of a lifetime.

Some memories? Well, let us just say they will remain safely locked away in Corsica because like Ved says in Tamasha “what happens in Corsica, stays in Corsica.”