Cheung Chau: Explore Hong Kong’s wild side

Dumb-bell Island for fun with family or some adventure
2022-10-03
/
/ New Delhi
Cheung Chau: Explore Hong Kong’s wild side

Cheung Chau island’s sandy beaches and scenic family-friendly hiking trail have always been appealing to those keen to escape the hectic city life

As it prepares for a revival of tourism, the Hong Kong Tourism Board recently held an in-person meeting with travel trade stakeholders and media in New Delhi. At the meeting, held in the unique settings of a cinema hall, the tourism board presented the wild side of the island destination – Cheung Chau island or the dumb bell island that packs in a variety of experiences – from fun with family to adventure activities – all in its compact territory.
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Most visitors planning to go to Hong Kong would visualise the destination as an island with a high mountain overlooking scores of skyscrapers, with almost everything to be done or explored in that compact area alone. Few would have heard of, let alone visited, a tiny island just a short ferry ride from the main island that offers an entirely different perspective on Hong Kong and is actually a destination for a vast variety of activities and experiences to tourists, whether alone, with family or friends.

Cheung Chau: Island away from island

The small, dumb-bell-shaped island of Cheung Chau, or ‘long island’, that is barely 3 sqkm in area, is popular for its distinctive waterfront, hilly terrain that is primed for treks or cycling as well as its numerous culinary delicacies, ranging from seafood to bakeries.

The island’s sandy beaches and scenic family-friendly hiking trail have always been appealing to those keen to escape the hectic city life. With influx of some younger Hong Kong residents, Cheung Chau now boasts of many vibrant new, hip cafés that sit in harmony alongside the island’s timeless, laid-back charms such as Pak Tai Temple, established in the 18th century by fisherfolk to honour the Taoist ‘God of the Sea’, which is the traditional venue for the island’s vibrant annual Cheung Chau Jiao Festival, also known as the Cheung Chau Bun Festival.

Only a short walk from the ferry pier, which has many packed alleyways of shops selling knick-knacks and locally designed accessories, cafes, bars and restaurants, is a long, crescent-shaped stretch of beach called Tung Wan. From here, on a clear day, one see the southern tip of the main Hong Kong Island.

Only a short walk from the ferry pier, which has many packed alleyways of shops selling knick-knacks

A short walk further south leads to a coastal walkway below Warwick Hotel, with a group of Bronze Age rock carvings that are part of a series discovered on sea-facing rocks on Hong Kong’s different outlying islands. The carvings have been declared a national monument and feature stylised geometric patterns, some resembling human or monster forms. Besides the archaeological wonders, the beach here is also popular as a water sports site and it attracts many enthusiasts, including stand-up paddlers, kayakers and kite-surfers. The beach is lined with several beachfront bars and cafes where people can unwind as they watch the sea.

Kwun Yam Beach is also the starting point of the Mini Great Wall, the island’s easy-going, 850-metre-long paved hiking trail, which follows the southeastern coastline. Enjoy panoramic ocean views while passing beside numerous stunning rock formations, which resemble the shape of a vase, an elephant’s head or even a skull. The area is popular with birdwatchers, who come to admire the many migrating species that stop here to rest on the island in-between making long-distance ocean-crossing journeys.

San Hing Street and Pak She Street have transformed over the years, rejuvenated by the influx of new, younger residents who have decided to call Cheung Chau home. One can spend time here exploring enticing craft shops selling handmade items created by local artists and trendy new cafes offering Instagrammable treats including cold brew and homemade Earl Grey tea chiffon cakes. Be sure to try the red-stamped ‘lucky buns’, filled with different sweet pastes such as sesame, red bean or lotus seed. These iconic snacks are used during the island’s annual bun festival, but are also steamed and sold all year round.

At the Tai Hing Tai Road and Tai San Praya Road, on the island’s southwestern village waterfront, visitors can savour traditional delights such as Cheung Chau’s famous curry-flavoured fish balls, fisherman’s barbecued squid and mango mochi — glutinous rice balls with a creamy mango filling. These old-time snacks remain a draw for both young and old alongside the nearby, trendy cafes that have since opened on the island.

The historic Taoist temple, one of the oldest in Hong Kong and also known as Yuk Hui Temple, lies to the north of the main village area, where Pak She Street meets the Cheung Chau Family Walk.

Cheung Chau Family Walk heads from Pak Tai Temple to the hilltop on the island’s northern side

The impressive structure was originally built in 1783 by the island’s fishing community to honour Pak Tai, that is also known as ‘King of the North’ and is seen as their protector and patron deity. The building includes a colourfully ornate ceramic-tiled roof with two green-and-gold dragons standing guard along the ridge. The main square outside Pak Tai Temple hosts the much-cherished Cheung Chau Jiao Festival or Cheung Chau Bun Festival. The third national list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2011 features the hugely popular challenge where brave competitors battle one another to climb ‘bun towers’ and claim as many buns as possible.

Cheung Chau Family Walk heads from Pak Tai Temple to the hilltop on the island’s northern side. This short but steep stretch takes hikers to Cheung Chau North Lookout Pavilion, the island’s highest point. From here visitors can savour a panoramic view of the island’s tombolo formation and is a perfect spot for Instagram enthusiasts. On a clear day, one can look across at Lamma Island on one side, and Tsing Ma Bridge, connecting Lantau Island to Hong Kong’s urban areas on the other. Sunset views from here are not to be missed.

Further east along the pavilion, more adventurous hikers can head to Pak Kok Tsui, a small peninsula with a small beach called Tung Wan Chai, which is a popular scenic spot. From here, hikers can continue along the path through a little forest and back to the bustling part of the island.

Walk northwards along the waterfront, past the main pier and rows of hanging sun-dried fish to reach San Hing Praya Street and Pak She Praya Road, home to many Cantonese-style seafood restaurants providing mouth-watering al fresco dining with stunning sunset sea views. Diners can choose items from the menu, or even bring freshly caught seafood bought from the island’s fishmongers, and have it cooked to order. Besides local delicacies, one can also find French, Thai and Indian restaurants here serving a wide range of savoury seafood delights.

Scheduled ferries depart for Cheung Chau from Central Pier No. 5, which is accessible from MTR Hong Kong Station. The trip takes 35 to 60 minutes. The last ferry back to Central departs at 11:45pm from Monday to Saturday, and at 11:30pm on Sundays and public holidays.

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