Iraq is also a land of spirituality and is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the world
They say never judge a book by its cover, yet Iraq is a country that has long been judged or rather misjudged and misunderstood by the world for decades, notably since the 2nd Gulf War. For many, Iraq is a synonym for conflict and hardship, a place defined by headlines of violence rather than the lives, rich history and heritage of the people who call it home.
The real Iraq, which lies hidden even today, is one of the cradles of humanity, where civilisations like the Mesopotamia and Sumer blossomed and where King Hammurabi wrote the oldest and longest code of laws and which have survived even today.
One of the biggest spiritual draws of Iraq is the spiritual walk of Arbaeen (Photo: U-Mrehzaa/unsplash, D-Abdullah Dhiaa al-Deeen)
Iraq is also a land of spirituality and is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the world, with cities like Karbala and Najaf attracting tens of millions of believers. One of the biggest spiritual draws of Iraq is the spiritual walk of Arbaeen, one which displays an entirely different Iraq, where doors, like the minds and hearts, are open, hands are outstretched and generosity knows no bounds.
Every year, over 20 million pilgrims from around the world take part in the Arbaeen pilgrimage, almost 10 times as much as those who perform the Hajj in Saudi Arabia. Despite its significance, few non-believers are aware of Arbaeen.
Arbaeen occurs 40 days after the 10th day of Muharram, which marks the day when Hussain ibn Ali, the grandson of Prophet Muhammad, was martyred in the Battle of Karbala in 680 CE. His defiance against tyranny made Karbala a lasting symbol of justice and sacrifice. Today, millions walk to honour his memory, retracing the journey of his family and companions, who were taken as captives to Damascus.
The pilgrimage begins from Najaf, the city of Imam Ali’s shrine, covers over 80 km to end at the Holy Shrine of Imam Hussain in Karbala. Beyond the physical endurance, Arbaeen is a journey of the heart, a walk of love, remembrance and unity that transcends nationality, language and sect.
Pilgrims walk for two to three days, passing through a landscape transformed by extraordinary hospitality. During the period of pilgrimage, Iraqis, many of whom have little to spare, set up over 15,000 mawkibs or temporary rest houses along the route, offering free food, water, rest and even medical care.
Pilgrims walk for two to three days, passing through a landscape transformed by extraordinary hospitality (Photo: Mhrezaa/Unsplash)
A Journey rooted in history and devotion
For many, Arbaeen is a deeply personal journey of faith and remembrance, and many Indians, too, undertake this pilgrimage. A resident of Panvel, near Mumbai, Moiz Shakir, a representative of Syedna Muffadal Saifuddin, the spiritual leader of The Dawoodi Bohras, was one.
“I had heard of many people going for Arbaeen, so there was always a fascination to go, but the real inspiration came from wanting to connect with the pain the Prophet’s family went through and to experience even a glimpse of what they must have endured,” Shakir tells India Outbound.
Arbaeen is not limited by nationality, ethnicity, or background. Kulthum Nazari, a copywriter with Basalam, an online platform for small businesses based in Qom in Iran, who has undertaken the pilgrimage frequently, says she was struck by the diversity of people walking alongside her.
“The first time I walked the Arbaeen and returned home, I found myself counting down the days until I could go again. There were people of all backgrounds, races and ages. Young children, elderly women and men, a mother carrying her one-month-old baby in her arms, people in wheelchairs, people with disabilities, everyone was there. You see the rich and the poor, often people who probably cannot afford to be there, but they are still there because it is a journey that means something to them. It is for everyone,” she reflects.
Besides experiencing spirituality on the pilgrimage, the devotees also get to see an unparalleled generosity from ordinary Iraqis, many of whom hardly manage to lead a hand-to-mouth existence. The unexpected generosity has left its mark on almost every pilgrim.
“There is so much respect you get there, so much hospitality, that every Iraqi would ask you to take their service. Even if you stop for a moment or just stand and catch your breath, they will come and take your hand. Make you sit, give you water, food and even foot massages. Their homes, shops, everything is open, so you can stop and relax,” says Shakir.
“I met a man along the way who was giving me a leg massage, and out of curiosity, I asked him what he did for a living. He told me he owned a small farm and employed a few labourers. What he said next stayed with me. Every year, everything he saved was spent on serving the pilgrims. ‘Imam Hussain gives back tenfold,’ the man said with unwavering faith. His words, his conviction, his selflessness, it moved me in a way I cannot put into words,” says Shakir.
The devotees get to see an unparalleled generosity from ordinary Iraqis (Photo: Syed Shahriyar)
“At every mawkib, you see the entire family from the eldest to the youngest, eagerly working. One is cooking, another places ice blocks in the refrigerator for cold water, and the children stand along the path with perfume bottles, so that the pilgrims can breathe in fragrant air as they pass, and the elders stand on the road, calling out Hala Bikum or welcome,” says Nazari.
Sakina Vohra, a homemaker based in Mumbai, who has visited Iraq several times, says nothing compares to the warmth she experienced during Arbaeen.
“I have been to Iraq eight times now, and the people, in general, are very welcoming. But during Arbaeen, their hospitality reaches a level I have never witnessed anywhere in the world. Once we were walking late at night when a man saw us and begged us to stay at his house.
People give everything they have, expecting nothing in return (Phote: Mhrezaa/Unsplash)
He went down on his knees to plead. As soon as we went into his house, his family began cooking fresh food for us, making seekh kebabs, and serving tea. He had one tiny air conditioner that he turned on, just for us. That night, I slept more peacefully than I ever had. There are not enough words in the dictionary to explain the Iraqi hospitality,” Vohra tells India Outbound.
Such generosity is the rule rather than the exception during Arbaeen and is driven not by wealth, but by an unwavering faith and love for Imam Hussain. People give everything they have, expecting nothing in return, believing that serving the pilgrims is an honour, not a duty. Even when the Iraqi government offers support, the locals refuse, determined to provide the service on their own.
Even though Arbaeen is deeply rooted in Islamic history, Shakir says it is more than religion. “After my experience, I truly believe that even if non-Muslims undertake Arbaeen, their faith, in whatever it may be, will only grow stronger. This journey has a way of strengthening one’s connection to their own beliefs like never before,” he says
Unveiling Iraq’s timeless soul
Beyond Arbaeen, Iraq has several other facets that quietly beckon travellers. The country is a treasure trove of sites, artefacts and monuments for the entire humanity, not just Muslims.
Baghdad: Soul of the Nation
Life in Baghdad moves with the rhythm of memory and resilience. A city that has seen empires rise and fall, yet holds on to its legacy with quiet pride.
Life in Baghdad moves with the rhythm of memory and resilience (Photo: Tatiana Mokhova/Unsplash)
“Visit the Mustansiriya School, one of the oldest universities in the Islamic world. Stroll through Al-Mutanabbi Street, a historic book market that reflects Baghdad’s rich intellectual heritage from the Golden Age of Islam. And just as you absorb the cultural spirit of Baghdad, a new layer of ancient wonder beckons, just a short drive away,” Karrar Amer Altiyah, an archaeologist and tour guide based in Iraq tells India Outbound.
Babylon: Echoes of an Empire
A 90-minute drive from Baghdad, Babylon was once the capital of a civilisation that influenced everything from law, literature to architecture
and astronomy. Visitors can explore the ruins of the Babylonian Empire, step onto the Processional Way, once walked by kings or visit the remnants of the Tower of Babel and see the foundations of the Ishtar Gate, which was once a wonder of the ancient world.
Ur: Relics of Sumerian Civilisation
Ur was land of the first known writing system, advanced urban planning and monumental architecture (Photo: Hasanmajed/Unsplash)
One of the greatest cities of the Sumerian civilisation, about 5,000 years ago, Ur was at the centre of power, trade and learning. It was the land of the first known writing system, advanced urban planning and monumental architecture.
“The Royal Cemetery of Ur revealed treasures over 4,500 years old, which included golden jewellery, weapons and artefacts. Do not forget to visit Ziggurat of Ur, one of the oldest surviving temples in human history, built over 4,000 years ago,” says Altiyah.
And where there is earth, there is water. Flowing softly now, into the life-giving marshes that once helped this land bloom.
Mesopotamian Marshes: Life on water
Visitors can ride traditional ‘mashhouf’ boats to explore floating villages (Photos: Ankita Kumar)
Once the heart of an ancient ecosystem, the Mesopotamian Marshes are among the last surviving wetlands of the Fertile Crescent, a crescent-shaped region in Western Asia and North Africa that is said to be cradle of first organised agriculture. Easily accessible from Basra or Nasiriyah, visitors can ride traditional ‘mashhouf’ boats to explore floating villages. Savour local flavours like grilled masgouf fish and experience the rich traditions of the indigenous Ma’dān people in this UNESCO-listed wonder.
Mosul: A city reclaims its soul
But Iraq is not only about its ancient history, its strength also lies in its resilience, best seen in Mosul, in northern Iraq. Few cities have endured what Mosul has that became synonymous with devastation and even now crumbling buildings and shattered neighbourhoods remind locals and visitors about what it had to undergo for decades. Yet, the spirit of its people remains unbroken and slowly, life is returning to the streets, and with it, the promise of a city reclaiming itself. It is home to some of the oldest Christian churches, including Mar Toma Church and Al-Tahira Church, showcasing centuries of Eastern Christian heritage.
Tourism in Iraq is still in its early days, but the doors are opening (Photo: L-Vishnu Saha , R-Karrar Amer Altiyah)
“My experience of Mosul was extremely intense. The destruction was something I had never seen before. Most locals cannot walk in those areas without tears. But despite that, I had the best experiences, I stayed at my friend’s home, was taken to an Iraqi wedding and experienced the best of hospitality. Mosul is recovering, and today it is probably safer than the city you are reading this from,” Vishnu Saha, a travel content creator, based in Hyderabad, tells India Outbound.
Beyond Mosul, too, travellers are discovering a different Iraq. “Before visiting Iraq, my perception was mostly shaped by what the media had told us, and I am really grateful that I got to go there and see it with my own eyes. The media’s portrayal is very skewed. There is an undercurrent of discomfort when you are travelling through Iraq, it is not easy, there is an eerie presence of the army all along, with tanks, armed personnel, checkpoints and sniffer dogs, so I would not pretend everything was easy breezy. But it also has some of the most incredible history I have ever seen,” Ankita Kumar, a travel content creator based in Bengaluru, tells India Outbound.
Years of war have left a large part of Iraq disorganised and this lack of organisation becomes even more visible at its heritage sites. “The sites here are unregimented, which means you feel like an archaeologist. At Uruk, we could see these artefacts out there in the open, an army officer would follow us around and so that we do not take anything back but you could actually almost do some excavation! There was something so special about the experience,” she adds.
Travelling as a solo female content creator, Kumar says she never really felt unsafe, except on just one occasion. “I felt that Iraq was pretty safe for the most part, but the only time I was a little uncomfortable was in Najaf, when a few young men whistled and eve-teased us. But that was literally the only incident. Otherwise, throughout the rest of the country, I never felt unsafe. I would say you can travel alone to Iraq, but you have to go with a guide, because that is not optional and with an Indian passport, you need to have a sponsor,’’ she adds.
Years of war have left a large part of Iraq disorganised (Photo: Karrar Amer Altiyah)
Iraq may seem unfamiliar to Indian travellers, but India and Iraq share a deep-rooted history dating back to the Silk Road and this connection is still felt today.
“I always say travelling the world is for the bravest, you can always say no, but it is the yes that changes everything. People told me Iraq is dangerous, it is not safe, but it is always by those who have never visited themselves. Iraq has so much potential in tourism, and it fills my heart to see more Indians visiting Iraq for tourism,” says Saha.
For those who still see Iraq through the lens of the recent past, perhaps it is time to turn the page. Because beyond the stories told in newsrooms lies a different reality, one written in the warmth of its people, the kindness of its streets and the spirit of a land that welcomes all who walk its path.
Tourism in Iraq is still in its early days, but the doors are opening. Slowly, steadily, the country is inviting the world back in, not with fanfare, but with generosity, humility and the simple hope of being seen for what it truly is.
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